Fixing Windows XP Annoyances

It's frustrating how computers never seem to be as fast as they were when we first bought them, although in most cases, it's simply a matter of the software demanding more.

A computer is ultimately the sum of its parts, so the task of improving performance must include a discussion of each component. Some parts, such as hard disks, can be optimized to your heart's content, potentially with substantial performance gains. On the other hand, when it comes to such components as your processor or motherboard, there's not much you can do to them short of replacing them entirely. In the rather special case of memory, an upgrade usually consists of simply adding more memory modules.

I'm often asked which hardware component is the most important in terms of performance or where money is best spent in upgrading. As you might expect, however, there is no hard and fast rule. As stated at the beginning of this chapter, sometimes it's more cost-effective to replace an entire system rather than laboring over software settings or simply swapping components, especially if most of said components are more than a few years old. For example, knowing where to spend your money and where to hold back is important; if you buy something you know is going to be obsolete in six months, such as the CPU, don't buy the top of the line, because the extra money will likely be worth very little down the road. However, spending more on a good monitor that will last for years is smart and will pay off in the long run.

When purchasing a new, prebuilt system, you should be aware that the quality of some of the components is often less than what you'd get if you bought the components separately. Computer system vendors make more money by including substandard, generic parts in their systems rather than name-brand, top-of-the-line components, although some mail-order firms often allow you to customize your system with various higher quality components. The moral when buying a new system is to look at more than just the CPU speed and the sticker price, so shop around. This goes for laptops as well as desktop computers.

Name-brand components are often important in that they're more likely to be supported by their manufacturers in the years to come. A few years ago, I upgraded the operating system on my laptop, and was disappointed (albeit not surprised) to find that updated drivers for my DVD decoder were simply not available, and there were no plans to ever make them available. And, since it was a laptop, the DVD decoder was not a modular, replaceable part. Had the vendor simply included a name-brand decoder, their loyal customers would still have fully functional decoders, capable of playing Repo Man in all its glory.^[18]

^[18] Dedicated DVD decoders have since become all but obsolete since Windows XP was released. With faster processors and superior video rendering processors in newer video cards, DVDs play perfectly well with no special hardware addons.

A good test for any hardware manufacturer is to see if they still support products they stopped making years ago. Check the technical support area of a company's web site to see if they have drivers and troubleshooting information for their old products. If they support yesterday's products today, they're likely to support today's products tomorrow. If a company doesn't support so-called "legacy" products, it's time to choose a different company. In short, do your research now before you spend a dime.

See Section 6.4 for troubleshooting information regarding each of the following components.

What follows is a collection of tips, hints, and tweaks specific to each component in your system that can really make a difference in the hardware you already have. Also included are upgrading tips, such as what to look for in a new monitor.^[19]

^[19] See also PC Hardware in a Nutshell, 2nd Edition by Barbara Fritchman Thompson and Robert Bruce Thompson (O'Reilly).

5.3.1 Monitors

Correct placement of your monitor is important, especially if you use your computer for long periods of time. First of all, you shouldn't be looking up or down at a monitor. Neither the monitor, nor your neck, should be tilted at all, but rather placed at the same level. If you're too high or low for this, you can adjust the monitor height with a stand or adjustable desk, or use an adjustable chair. Using a monitor at eye level is not only more comfortable, but also decreases the risk of back and neck injury.

If you keep the glass clean, your images will be sharper as well; spray some window cleaner on a paper towel (not on the monitor directly) to clean it. Also, if you wear glasses, you should consult your optometrist for eyewear made especially for computer screens. Your reading or driving glasses may not have the proper focal length for this purpose. Lastly, the contrast and brightness should be set so that black appears dark black and not washed-out gray (try adjusting these with an MS-DOS Command Prompt window open), and text is bright and high-contrast. Try turning the contrast control all the way up and the brightness control somewhere between its minimum and middle positions.

Another monitor adjustment that most people overlook is color-correction. If you work with digital images and you have a high-end monitor, consider using a colorimeter to measure the way your monitor displays colors, allowing your graphics software to compensate and display your images more accurately.

Lastly, monitors use a lot of power, so if you routinely leave your computer on for long periods of time, you can safely turn your monitor off (or configure Windows' power management to do it for you after, say, 15 minutes of inactivity) to conserve electricity and lower those power bills.

5.3.1.1 What to look for in a new monitor

The monitor is arguably the most important single component in a computer system and usually the most expensive. Your monitor is what you spend the most time looking at; your eyes will thank you for choosing wisely, especially if you use it for several hours a day, wear corrective lenses, or are prone to headaches. The monitor is the component least likely to become obsolete; a good monitor will probably outlast every other component in your system, so it's the best place to put your money. My advice to those looking for a new computer is to take some money out of the computer budget and spend more on the monitor. Don't skimp here!

A large, crisp screen makes your computer more pleasing to use. Don't settle for anything smaller than 15 inches for a desktop flat-panel, 17 inches for a conventional CRT, or 14 inches for a laptop display. If you can afford it, invest in a bigger, better-quality monitor, and postpone that CPU upgrade for a while.

Flat-panel monitors (also called LCD, TFT, or plasma displays) are, these days, the de-facto standard. They're lighter-weight and less power-hungry than their CRT cousins (discussed later), tend to be more reliable, and certainy consume less desk space. Flat-panel screens don't flicker, don't distort images, and typically have consistent color reproduction. And since about the time of Windows XP's release, they're cost-competitive with CRT screens. The better flat-panels have digital connections, high native resolutions (1280 X 1024 or higher), extra bright screens, and are viewable from any angle. Super-wide LCD screens (supporting the 1600 X 1024 resolution) are usually more expensive than standard 4:3 screens, but typically produce much better output, and are worth it if you have the money. Lastly, while mysteriously rare, a built-in height adjustment should be considered essential.

People typically choose a CRT (cathode ray tube) monitors for economic reasons. CRTs are still the cheapest monitors, especially if you want a really big display (21 inches or larger).^[20] If buying a CRT, look for a flat, square screen surface bulging, round screens, although cheaper, offer heavy image distortion and look terrible, and are pretty much obsolete these days anyway. You'll want lots of controls to adjust not only brightness and contrast, but image size and position, color temperature (the saturation, or "warmth," of brighter colors), rotation, and the "pincushion" effect. Insist on digital controls (push buttons); analog controls (dials) don't have memory, so you'll need to adjust the controls every time you change the video mode (which happens more frequently than you may think).

^[20] Since XP supports multiple monitors, consider two cheap flat-panel screens side-by-side, instead of one big CRT.

Don't waste your money on built-in speakers unless you have limited desk space or can afford the novelty; separate speakers will provide much better sound and usually cost a lot less.

Now, everything that appears on the monitor is put there by the video card; see the next topic for more information on improving the display.

5.3.2 Video Cards (Display Adapters)

The first thing you should do with your display adapter is to configure it to show the highest color depth it will support, and the highest resolution you find usable. Note that Windows XP has a feature that automatically boosts the resolution to at least 800 X 600 and the color depth to at least 16-bit just after it's first installed, or new video hardware is detected, but that doesn't necessarily mean your display is operating at its optimal settings.

To set the color depth, double-click the Display icon in Control Panel, and choose the Settings tab. Move the Screen resolution slider to the right to increase your display's resolution (more dots equals more screen real estate, but smaller screen elements). To the right is a drop-down list labeled Color quality, with all of the color depth settings your video card supports. Select the highest color quality setting your video hardware supports (at least Medium (16-bit)). See the "Understanding Color Depth" sidebar for more information.

The other setting that can affect your display quality is the refresh rate, although the setting is practically meaningless on digital flat-panel displays. Although the maximum refresh rate is not dependent on the amount of your card's memory, you may have to lower your resolution to achieve a better refresh rate, especially for older video cards. Windows should theoretically automatically adjust your refresh rate to the highest setting your card supports, but this is not always the case. If you notice that your display appears to be flickering, especially under florescent lights, you'll need to raise your refresh rate, either by adjusting the refresh rate setting directly or by lowering your resolution or color depth. Consequently, if you hear a slight whine from your monitor, it actually means your refresh rate is too high. The minimum refresh rate you should tolerate is 72 Hz. People with corrective lenses seem to be more sensitive and might require a higher setting to be comfortable. Most cards available today support refresh rates of 75 Hz and higher, so this is usually not a problem. To change the refresh rate, go to Control Panel Display Settings tab Advanced Monitor tab. If your display driver supports it, you can adjust your refresh rate with the Screen refresh rate setting. If the setting is not there, you'll either need to obtain a more recent video driver, reduce your resolution or color depth, or get yourself a better video card.

You can often significantly improve your video card's performance by getting newer drivers from the manufacturer (see Chapter 6), which may be superior to the ones that come with Windows (likely to be the ones you're using now). Optimized drivers can increase speed, offer higher resolutions with more colors, give you more control over advanced settings,^[21] and offer better stability than the plain-vanilla drivers that come with Windows.

^[21] See Section 5.1.5, earlier in this chapter, for details.

5.3.2.1 What to look for in a new video card

The video card is what puts the image on your monitor, so a faster video card almost always translates to a faster display. Most video cards available today will be more than fast enough to satisfy most users; the exception is in the area of 3D accelerators.

Although most manufacturers claim their video cards offer "stellar 3D performance," most of them will sorely disappoint you. 3D acceleration primarily benefits 3D games, so if you don't play 3D games (Freecell doesn't count), don't bother paying extra for the hottest 3D features. A 3D game will play terribly on even the fastest computer if you don't have a decent 3D accelerator, so do your research before investing in any particular card. The technology advances rapidly, so your best bet is to visit one of the hundreds of game-related web sites out there most of them will have up-to-date hardware reviews and recommendations. The best thing about the better cards is that they handle a lot of the calculations involved in displaying 3D images, meaning that your main CPU can be free to devote its cycles to actual gameplay. At minimum, you'll want a 3D card that fully supports OpenGL and DirectX 9.

In addition to speed, the other major consideration is memory. The amount of memory on your video card (not to be confused with the memory on your motherboard) is responsible for the maximum resolution and color depth your card will support; for 3D accelerators, video memory is also used to store 3D textures. In short, more memory is better it's always a good idea to get more video memory than you think you need.

Resist the temptation to allow an advertised benchmark to influence your purchase decisions. Bar graphs and charts that compare the performance of various cards are just devices used by magazine editors to sell more magazines. Benchmarks generally measure rather arbitrary quantities, such as data throughput and characters-per-second, rather than more important things like adherence to industry standards, driver reliability, and application and game support.

Most video cards come in different flavors, mostly specific to the connector type on your motherboard and the connector type on your monitor. All modern Windows systems accept PCI and AGP cards. AGP is an enhanced form of PCI, intended to improve 3D performance by widening the data bus between the motherboard and video card. If your motherboard has an AGP slot, you'll want an AGP card. And although all analog monitors use the same 15-pin connector, some manufacturers are now including DVI-I connectors on their video cards for use with digital flat-panel displays (see Section 5.3.1.1 earlier in this chapter).

Lastly, it's important to have a brand-name video card (or a card that uses a brand-name chipset like nVidia), because no-name or clone video cards aren't widely supported and may be difficult to get to work down the road.

5.3.3 Motherboards

The motherboard holds the processor, chipset, and memory, and connects all your cards and peripherals to one-another. With the exception of jumpers, all of a motherboard's settings are located in the BIOS (sometimes called CMOS ) setup screen. Correct BIOS settings are essential to the performance and reliability of your system, and are discussed in detail in Appendix B.

Probably the best thing you can do is to make sure you have the latest drivers installed for your motherboard chipset; see Chapter 6 for details. See also Section 5.3.4 and Section 5.3.5, both later in this chapter, for additional tips. Finally, for the adventurous, take a look at the "Managing IRQ Priority" sidebar.

5.3.3.1 What to look for in a new motherboard

The most important thing to look for in a motherboard is support for the processor you intend to use both today and tomorrow. Motherboards and processors are usually purchased in pairs, but because most motherboards support a wide range of CPU speeds, it's best to choose a motherboard that can easily accommodate faster chips and more memory later on.

Some motherboards support two (or more) processors, which use symmetric multiprocessing (SMP) to significantly boost performance. Unlike Windows 9x/Me, Windows XP fully supports SMP, and is able to work with the motherobard's chipset to distribute processing load among the CPUs.^[22] It not uncommon for a dual-CPU Pentium-III board to outperform a single Pentium-4 system of twice the clock speed. Multiprocessor systems have advantages other than just speed, though: for example, one CPU handles the foreground process, while the other handles the background processes, making Windows XP extraordinarily responsive. If a program crashes and eats up all your CPU cycles on a single-processor system, your computer hangs; on a multi-processor system, the other CPU just takes over and you can safely shut down the errant task or even continue working.

^[22] See http://www.2cpu.com for more information on SMP.

Expansion slots are important, too. The more PCI slots and memory slots, the better. Don't bother with ISA slots unless you have old expansion cards you absolutely can't live without. All motherboards have built-in hard-disk controllers, serial, parallel, and USB ports. Many new boards also have integrated SCSI controllers and network adapters, which can save both money and PCI slots. Some motherboards have built-in video and sound cards, although you'll almost always be better off with separate, third-party counterparts.

A motherboard with lots of jumpers and switches can be difficult to configure, so look for boards with only a few, well-labeled jumpers. In fact, make sure all of the connectors are clearly labeled in English on the board, and not simply numbered.

Lastly, the chipset is typically a pair of chips that handle communication between the CPU, the BIOS, the memory, and the expansion cards, and therefore can have a big impact on performance and reliability. Include the chipset in your research, especially before investing in a high-end system.

5.3.4 Processors

In most cases, there's little or nothing you can do to improve the performance of an existing processor, save replacing it. The exceptions are with regard to cooling and overclocking.

A cooler processor will run faster and more reliably; a processor that is allowed to overheat will cause system crashes. A decent fan is the solution you should have one mounted on top of your processor as well as in the front of your computer and in your power supply. Cheap fans won't do as good of a job cooling your CPU and may even wear out quickly, resulting in excessive noise. Peltier cooling units (also known as thermoelectric heat pumps) are also available, but are expensive and really not necessary unless you overclock your processor.

Overclocking is the process of instructing your processor to run at a higher clock speed (MHz) than its rated speed. For example, you may be able to overclock a 900 MHz chip to run at 950 MHz, or even faster. Supposedly, Intel and other chip makers have taken steps to eliminate overclocking (theoretically prompting more purchases), but some motherboard manufacturers have found ways to do it anyway. Settings allowing you to overclock your CPU can be found in your BIOS setup (see Appendix B), assuming your motherboard supports it.

5.3.4.1 What to look for in a new processor

The processor is the highest profile component (at least where marketing is concerned), as a fast processor often translates to a fast overall computer, especially with respect to games. But processors also become obsolete the fastest, and given how expensive they can be, it's often smart not to get the fastest processor available.

Note that a processor's clock speed is just one of several factors upon which overall system speed is dependent. For example, jumping from a 500-MHz CPU to a 1-GHz unit will not double the speed of the computer. In fact, the clock speed can be very misleading; a dual 800-Mhz system will outpace a 1-Ghz system, and a 1.4-GHz Pentium-4 will outpace a 1.4-GHz Pentium III.

Do some math before deciding on a CPU. Divide the processor speed by the price to get the megahertz-per-dollar value of each chip.^[23] You'll find that the fastest chips are rarely the best deal. True, a faster chip will last slightly longer before it needs to be upgraded, but the extra money (which can be substantial) to get the top of the line today won't matter so much when it's time to upgrade later on. Besides, several years from now, you're not likely to care about the miniscule speed difference between a 1.4-Ghz and a 1.6-Ghz chip.

^[23] If you're deciding between different types of processors, you'll want to compare their benchmarks rather than their clock speeds. Use a third-party benchmark, rather than those provided by chip manfuacturers.

Your best bet is one or two steps below the top of the line, if you can afford it. If money is tight, go for a slower processor. You can always upgrade later if you have a motherboard that supports faster chips. In fact, the combined price of buying the slower CPU now and the faster CPU later will often be lower than buying the faster CPU now.

That said, consider the combined price of a brand new motherboard and processor with the price of the fastest processor your current motherboard will accept. Sometimes it pays to replace both units, especially if your existing motherboard is more than a few years old.

5.3.5 Memory

Like processors, there's little you can do to improve memory performance aside from simply adding more of it. The exception is how efficiently your memory is being used. By removing software loaded automatically by Windows that you don't use, you'll be leaving more memory available for other applications see Section 5.2.5, earlier in this chapter, for details.

5.3.5.1 What to look for in new memory

There are no two ways about it: the more memory, the better (at least up to a point). Adding more memory to a computer will almost always result in better performance. Windows loads drivers, applications, and documents into memory until it's full; once there's no more memory available, Windows starts storing large chunks of memory on your hard disk^[24] to make room for the applications that need it. Because your hard disk is substantially slower than memory, this "swapping" noticeably slows down your system. The more memory you have, the less frequently Windows will use your hard disk in this way and the faster your system will be.

^[24] See Section 5.2.4, also earlier in this chapter, for details.

The nice thing about memory is that it is a cheap and easy way to improve performance. When Windows 3.x was first released, 32 MB of RAM cost around a thousand dollars. The same quantity of memory (a faster variety) at the release of Windows XP costs less than a ticket to the movies.

The type of memory you should get depends solely on what your motherboard demands refer to the documentation that came with your motherboard or computer system for details. There are different brands of memory out there, and some are simply known for better reliability and stability.^[25] Some motherboards require more expensive varieties, an important consideration when shopping for new motherboard.

^[25] Although I typically don't endorse brands, Micron memory was very well regarded at the time of this writing. I've heard reports of problems experienced by those who opted for the cheaper generic brands, but as with anything else, your mileage may vary.

That simply leaves one thing to think about: quantity. In short, get as much memory as you can afford. Like everything else, though, there is a point of diminishing returns; depending on how you use your computer, 256 MB or 384 MB might be enough for more uses.

Lastly, memory comes in individual modules, which are inserted into slots on your motherboard. The higher the capacity of each module, the fewer you'll need the fewer modules you use, the more slots you'll leave open for a future upgrade. Sometimes, however, lower capacity modules can be a better deal (costing fewer dollars per megabyte).

5.3.6 Hard Disks

As far as your physical hard drive is concerned, the best thing you can do is to make sure your drive is securely fastened to your computer case and is adequately cooled. More important, however, is how you take care of the inside of your hard drive; namely, the data stored on it. There are several things that you can do maximize the performance, capacity, and reliability of your drive, and all involve manipulating your files. Many of the topics found earlier in this chapter offer performance enhancing solutions that deal with your hard drive and the data stored on it.

5.3.6.1 What to look for in a new hard disk

A hard disk should be fast, capacious, and reliable. Look for a solid brand rather than a closeout deal. Get the largest capacity you can afford, because you'll use it. Besides, hard drive costs are plummeting, and it's not unusual for one drive to cost only a few dollars more than another of half the capacity.

Probably the most important feature, however, is the speed. The speed of a hard disk is measured in two quantities, access time and transfer rate. The access time, measured in milliseconds, is the average length of time required to find information. The transfer rate, measured in megabytes per second, is the speed that the drive can transfer data to your system. Although the access time is almost always quoted alongside the capacity of a drive (look for 7 ms or faster), the transfer rate isn't always publicized. However, if you're looking for maximum performance, it's a good thing to look for. Lower access times and higher transfer rates are better.

Access time and transfer rate are influenced primarily by two properties of any hard drive: the RPM (the speed at which the disk spins in revolutions per minute) and the type of connection that it uses. Typical drives spin at 5,400 RPM; better ones spin at 7,200 RPM; the fastest drives spin at 10,000-15,000 RPM. The type of connection, on the other hand, must match the type of hard-disk controller you have (e.g., EIDE, SCSI, Ultra160 SCSI). See the subsequent topics on hard-disk controllers and SCSI controllers for details.

5.3.7 Hard-Disk Controllers

Most hard-disk controllers typically don't have any settings (SCSI controllers, described later in this chapter, being the major exception, as well as RAID controllers).^[26]

^[26] RAID, or Redundant Array of Indexpensive Disks, allows you to have two or more drives with exactly the same data on them. The redundancy is for fault-tolerance, allowing the computer to continue working even if one drive bursts into flames.

5.3.7.1 What to look for in a new hard-disk controller

The hard-disk controller is what your hard disk and (usually) floppy drives plug into. With the exception of SCSI controllers, the discussion of hard-disk controllers is limited to the IDE variety, two of which are undoubtedly built into your computer's motherboard. The only time when you might consider upgrading your controller is to accommodate a new hard disk your current controller doesn't support. In this case, you should compare the price of said controller with the price of a brand new motherboard with the controller built in: surprisingly, the prices are often very close.

The only other time you're likely to be shopping for a new controller is when the one you're using is full. A single IDE controller can support a maximum of two drives; most motherboards come with two controllers, supporting a maximum of four drives. These drives can be hard disks, CD drives, tape drives, CD writers, and so forth. To support more than four devices, you'll need another controller. In most cases (with the exception of SCSI controllers), they're all the same, so your best bet is to get the cheapest Plug-and-Play card you can find.

5.3.8 SCSI Controllers

SCSI, or small computer system interface, is a constantly-evolving technology that, while typically more expensive than IDE, also usually outperforms it.

The art of SCSI is in the cabling. You may experience slow performance with your SCSI devices if your SCSI termination is incorrect or if your SCSI chain (the length of all your SCSI cables added up) is more than the recommended maximum for your adapter type. For standard SCSI (10-20 MB/sec), the chain should be no longer than 3.0 meters (9.8 feet); for Ultra SCSI (20-40 MB/sec), the maximum chain length is 1.5 meters (4.9 feet). And for Low Voltage Differential (LVD) Ultra2 and Ultra160 (80-160 MB/sec) SCSI chains, the chain should be no more than 12 meters (39.2 feet).

Many SCSI controllers also have a built-in BIOS, along with a few pages of settings. Each SCSI device attached to your SCSI controller may have different requirements, so check the documentation that came with your devices and make sure the SCSI controller's settings (max data rate, sync-negotiation, termination power, etc.) match the requirements of each specific device.

5.3.8.1 What to look for in a new SCSI controller

For many of us, the choice is not which one to buy, but whether to buy one at all. The only reason to get a SCSI adapter is to support one or more SCSI devices, such as hard disks, CD/DVD drives, scanners, tape drives, removable cartridge drives, optical drives, and CD recorders. Because most, if not all, of these are available in IDE form (requiring no additional purchase, because IDE controllers are built into most computers), most users won't need a SCSI controller at all.

Personally, I love SCSI (don't worry; it's just platonic). A single modern SCSI adapter can support up to 28 SCSI devices; you'd need seven IDE controllers to do that. SCSI also offers better performance and more flexibility than IDE; SCSI devices can be internal or external, for example. And SCSI drives typically consume fewer processor cycles than IDE equivalents, which translates directly to better overall system performance. Keep in mind that USB and Firewire are invading some of SCSI's territory, such as support for scanners and external drives, so they may be a better bet for a given device.

There are several varieties of SCSI, including Fast SCSI, SCSI2, Ultra SCSI, LVD Ultra2 SCSI, Ultra160 SCSI, and Ultra320 SCSI whatever you get should be at least capable of supporting the specific SCSI devices you own or intend to use.

A good SCSI controller will have its own BIOS, so you can boot off of a SCSI hard disk. Getting a brand-name SCSI controller (such as Adaptec) is important, because without adequate software support, a SCSI controller is worthless. If you want to squeeze every bit of performance out of your system and are willing to pay a little more, a 10,000 RPM LVD Ultra160 SCSI hard disk with a matching controller is hard to beat.

5.3.9 CD, CD-R, DVD, DVD-R Drives, and the Like

A CD or DVD drive may run slower than it is designed to if there's a problem with the controller; see Section 5.3.7 and Section 5.3.8, both earlier in this chapter, for details. Otherwise, the only way to really improve the performance of a CD or DVD drive is to replace it.

5.3.9.1 What to look for in a new CD or DVD drive

A CD/DVD drive should do two things well. It should recognize all of the different types of disks you want to use, and it should be able to read them quickly. Some drives have extra features, discussed later, that may be worth their extra cost.

The speed of a CD drive is measured by how much faster it spins the disk than an ordinary audio CD player; a 16x CD drive is obviously 16 times faster. DVD drives are likewise rated by their speed relative to a video DVD player.

If CD/DVD drive speed is important to you, there are two numbers to look for in a drive's performance ratings: access time and transfer rate. The access time, measured in milliseconds, is the average length of time required to find information, and the transfer rate, measured in kilobytes per second, is the speed that the drive can transfer data to your system. CD-ROM drives are much slower than hard disks, so access times will be in the range of 80 ms to 120 ms (as opposed to 7 ms to 10 ms for an average hard disk) look for an access time of 200 ms or less. The transfer rate is usually 150 kilobytes per second times the speed of the drive; an 24x CD drive should have a transfer rate of about 24 X 150, or 3.6 MB per second. Lower access times and higher transfer rates are better.

In most cases, the brand and type of drive you purchase won't be important; they're pretty ubiquitous, and Windows should support nearly anything you throw at it. The following aspects are worth mentioning; whether they're worth exta money is up to you.

Loading mechanism

The vast majority of CD and DVD drives use a flimsy motorized tray to load and eject CDs, but there are two alternatives. Slot-loading drives (which load similarly to automobile CD players) are difficult to find, but are usually much slicker, more convenient, and more robust than tray-loading drives. The other type of drive uses a clumsy plastic caddy to hold the CD but any of these drives are totally obsolete.

SCSI or IDE interface

If you already have a SCSI controller, you'll most likely be happier with a SCSI drive: they're often faster, in that there's less of a burden on the processor to access a SCSI drive than an IDE drive. Also, SCSI drives are better at extracting CD audio data, useful for making MP3 files or CD copies. On the down side, SCSI drives sometimes cost a few dollars more, and a minority of motherboard BIOSs only support bootable CDs inserted into IDE drives. If you don't have a SCSI controller, though, you'll be fine with any IDE drive.

Changers and jukeboxes

A few years ago, CD-ROM jukeboxes were popular, but that fad appears to have waned.^[27] A CD-ROM changer works like an audio CD changer; a standard-size drive holds 3, 4, or 5 disks (typically loaded through a slot, mentioned earlier), but can only read one CD a time. Each disk position shows up as a separate drive in Explorer, and the changer loads the appropriate disk when the corresponding drive is accessed.

^[27] I personally had a five-disk changer a few years back, but the only time this actually came in handy was when I played MYST II: Riven, which came on 5 CDs all I had to do when a new CD was needed was wait a few seconds while the changer did its magic.

Combo drives

As a space-saving measure in laptops, and a cost-saving measure in desktops, some companies include combo DVD/CD-RW drives in their computers. Instead of having a separate CD writer and DVD player, you can get them both in the same drive (this category is likely to include combo CD writers/DVD writers soon). The only drawback is that a compromise is usually made in the speed of the writer or reader, when compared with stand-alone units.

CD/DVD writers

In addition to the aforementioned features, there are a couple of extra things to look for in CD and DVD writers. Certainly, faster writers are able to fill a disk in less time, but you'd be hard pressed to notice the difference between a 24x CD writer and a 32x CD writer; save your money for the blank media. Probably just as important (if not more so) than the drive's writing speed is the buffer size, the amount of memory in the drive for the holding the data to be written to the disk. The bigger the buffer, the less of a difference it will make if your computer is not able to supply a steady stream of data to the drive, and the more reliable it will be, especially when copying disks or multitasking. See the next topic, "Tape Drives and Removable Cartridge Drives," for more considerations.

5.3.10 Tape Drives and Removable Cartridge Drives

The best thing you can do to improve performance with any of these drives is to keep them clean. Dust and dirt, especially in tape drives, mean poor performance, lost data, or even an early death.

One important option that is available for some removable media drives, such as digital camera memory card readers, is write caching. Write caching, typically disabled by default in Windows XP, can improve performance by waiting until your computer is in an idle state before physically writing data to the drive. While write caching is always enabled for hard disks, it's not always advisable for removable drives because the media can be ejected when there's still data waiting to be written, which can mean lost data. Open Device Manager (devmgmt.msc), right-click the drive, and choose the Policies tab (if the tab isn't there, this option isn't available for the selected drive). The Optimize for quick removal option disables write caching, and the Optimize for performance option enables it. While the second option will improve performance, it should only be used for drives and readers with electronic (not mechanical) eject buttons; such drives will be capable of requesting that any pending data be written before the media is actually ejected, thereby preventing any lost data.

5.3.10.1 What to look for in a new tape drive or removable cartridge drive

These types of drives allow you to store a lot of data on special, removable media. However, each system has its own set of advantages and disadvantages and its own intended purpose.

For backing up your system in the case of an emergency, you'll be hard-pressed to beat a tape drive. The reliability, speed, low media cost, and high capacity of newer tape drives make them ideal backup devices.

For archiving data (storing important documents for long-term storage), as well as sharing data with others, CD recorders are terrific solutions. Blank CDs are extremely cheap, often costing less than half-a-dollar per 700 MB disc, and are compact and extremely reliable. The best part is that almost anyone will be able to read the disks, which means you won't have to spend the money on a second drive if you use it to share data. Nearly all CD writers also support rewritable CDs (CD-RW ), which can be erased and rerecorded repeatedly; although these disks can be are convenient in some situations, they have their drawbacks. They are quite effective when used in conjunction with packet-writing software (such as Adaptec's DirectCD), which allows you to write to a CD as though it were just another drive in Explorer (no "mastering" software required), effectively turning a CD-RW drive into a 600+ MB removable cartridge drive. The downside is that the disks can't be read in most audio CD and DVD players, and they tend to cost more than normal blank CDs.

For repeatedly transferring large quantities of data from one place to another, though, removable hard disks are the answer. The cartridges are much more expensive than either blank CDs or tapes, but they're very fast, fairly reliable, and don't require special backup software to use: they just show up as another drive letter in Explorer. Although a network connection (see Chapter 7) is usually an easier and more convenient way to share data between computers, removable hard disks are faster when transferring extremely large files, and make it easier, for example, to bring such data home from the office (where a network isn't applicable).

See Section 6.5.2 for further comparison of different types of backup devices. It's a good idea to research the cost of the cartridges before investing in a particular technology. A drive that seems like a good deal in the store may turn out to be a money pit when you take into account the expensive media. Other things to consider include speed (usually measured in MB/min or MB/sec, reliability (how long the media lasts), and availability of the media. Don't forget portability how likely are others to be able to read these media you use?

5.3.11 Modems

I must preface this by saying that analog modems are essentially obsolete, like it or not. Both DSL and cable modem connections,^[28] which can easily be 20-30 times as fast as a 56 K modem connection, often cost no more than a standard dial-up Internet connection plus the cost of a dedicated phone line. Think about that before you read another word . . .

^[28] See Chapter 7 for more information on Internet connections and high-speed solutions.

Now, the most common cause for slow connection speeds is a noisy phone line. Noise can corrupt the data being transferred; if your modem gets corrupted data, the data must be sent again. If 15% of the data needs to be resent, your modem will be 15% slower than it should be. Start by connecting a telephone handset to the phone line or to the jack labeled "phone" on the back of your modem, and make a normal call. If you hear any crackling or interference, it means the line is very noisy (you may not be able to hear low-to-moderate noise, however). If you suspect line noise, try replacing the phone cord or even the entire wall jack. Note that the phone cord shouldn't be any longer than is absolutely necessary.

Also, make sure there isn't anything else connected to the line, especially between the computer and the wall. That is, any answering machines, fax machines, and telephones should be plugged into the back of your modem (the jack labeled "phone"), and your modem should be plugged directly into the wall. These devices can interfere with transmission since the signal must pass through them in order to reach your computer.

On the software side, make sure you have a driver made especially for your modem. If you have an external modem, make sure it's connected to a USB port or high-speed serial port, equipped with a 16550A chip or better. Otherwise, your serial port may be the bandwidth bottleneck.

5.3.11.1 What to look for in a new modem

I'll make this short and sweet unless you have some very specific and unusual requirements for a modem, get the cheapest Plug-and-Play 56 K modem (preferably PCI) you can find. Also, internal modems are better and cheaper than external ones, but their installation does require that you crack open your computer.

5.3.12 Network Interface Cards (NICs)

Network cards and their drivers usually come with lots of settings, which usually come preconfigured out of the box for compatibility rather than performance. For example, the default setting for the bidirectional feature (allowing data to be transmitted in both directions simultaneously) on many network cards is disabled, because some types of configurations don't support it. As long as all network cards in your workgroup support it and you're using 10-baseT cabling instead of the older 10-base2, you should enable bidirectional communication. Refer to the documentation that comes with your network card for details on specific settings.

Obviously, for the best performance you should be using the most recent drivers for all of your network adapters. Furthermore, Windows has a tendency to install more drivers and protocols than are truly necessary for the type of connection you're using. Extra drivers not only waste memory, but add transmission overhead and slow network communications as well. In some cases, extraneous or incorrectly configured drives on a single machine will bring an entire local network to its knees. See Chapter 7 for more information on the drivers required for your connection, and try removing all unnecessary ones.

5.3.12.1 What to look for in a new network card

The most important feature of a network card is compatibility. Make sure the card you choose is able to communicate with the rest of your network and comes with drivers specifically written for Windows XP or Windows 2000. Buying a name brand will help ensure that you'll always be able to find drivers, but you probably won't have any immediate problems with a cheap, no-name NIC. Look for a Plug-and-Play, PCI Ethernet adapter. If you have a laptop, get a Cardbus Ethernet adapter without a dongle the pop-out connectors are more convenient and far more durable than they look.

You'll need a network card for each computer you wish to connect to your network. You may also need a hub get one with more than enough ports to handle the number of computers and network printers (if any) you want to use. Lastly, connect everything with category-5 patch cables. If you're connecting only two computers, you can omit the hub and use a single category-5 crossover cable instead.

If you plan on using Internet Connection Sharing, you'll need two network cards in the host computer and one in each of the client computers. See Section 7.2.3 for details.

5.3.13 Sound Cards

It doesn't make much sense to talk about the performance of a sound card, but rather the performance of the rest of the system when the sound card is used. A hardware conflict (see Chapter 6), as well as out-of-date or poorly configured drivers, can cause your system to slow down or even hang when you try to listen to music or sound effects. Consult the web site of your sound-card manufacturer for updated drivers and any performance tips.

Many sound cards come with extra drivers that offer support of older DOS games. Unless you specically need these, it's best to remove them entirely. Sound drivers intended for Windows XP will be different than those written for earlier versions of Windows, so make sure you have your manufacturer's latest drivers installed. If you can't get Windows XP-specific drivers, it may be time for a new sound card.

See Section 5.1.5 earlier in this chapter for more information on games and your sound card.

5.3.13.1 What to look for in a new sound card

It used to be that a good sound card had to be fully Soundblaster-compatible, but that's true mostly for DOS games. Modern sound cards need only be compatible with Microsoft DirectX 9.

A cheap sound card will suffice for the simplest tasks, such as playing audio CDs or listening to lame sound effects in web pages. But better sound cards will have environmental 3D sound, digital surround-sound outputs, and a digital signal processor to offload the burden on the sound card. Digital outputs are important only if you plan on playing DVD movies on your PC, and are totally useless unless you've got a digital audio receiver to which to connect them.

Avoid external, USB-based sound systems. Their performance won't be as good as PCI-based sound cards, and are notorious for causing system problems.

All of these things translate to better sound, but only if you have a decent pair of speakers. Cheap PC speakers tend to sound tinny, so splurge a little bit. Try your local musician supply store rather than your local computer store when speaker shopping. Naturally, keep in mind that connecting a $600 surround-sound speaker system to a 10-year old off-brand sound card will get you nowhere, so be reasonable.

5.3.14 Printers

The most common printing bottlenecks are bad drivers and bad cables. Try replacing both to spruce up your printer.

Your printer cable should be in good condition and securely fastened at both ends. New printers typically connect with USB cables, although older printers use your computer's parallel port. If you have a choice, use the USB connection for the best performance and reliability.

If you're experiencing poor printing speed with a USB printer, try eliminating any USB hubs, if applicable.

If using a parallel-port printer, remove any switching boxes, printer-sharing devices, and extraneous connectors unless they're absolutely necessary. Printer cables that are too long cause problems, so use the shortest cable you can find (USB doesn't have this problem). If your parallel port is built into your motherboard (as most are), you should go to your system BIOS setup screen (see Section 5.3.3 topic earlier in this chapter) to make sure your parallel port is configured for its optimal setting (usually ECP). Refer to Appendix B for details.

If your printer is shared by two or more computers over a workgroup, the printer should be connected to the computer that uses the printer the most. If you are experiencing slow printing over a network, look into a print-server solution; this is often just an expansion card installed in your printer, allowing you to connect it directly to your network instead of just to one of the computers on your network. This usually results in faster, more reliable, and more convenient printing. See Chapter 7 for more information.

As far as the software goes, most of the drivers included with Windows should work fine. In fact, many new printers come with special software that allows you to control the printer on-screen, but such software often ends up adding a lot of overhead which can result in much slower printing. If Windows supports your printer without the manufacturer's drivers, use the Windows driver instead for the best results.

5.3.14.1 What to look for in a new printer

There's such a wide range of printers available, it's impossible to cover all of the choices. The decision is usually based upon your budget and your needs. Get a solid brand-name printer; a good printer should be a workhorse, lasting for years. The choice most people make is usually between inkjet and laser printers. Simply put, laser printers are more expensive, faster, and have better print quality than inkjet printers. Inkjet printers are less expensive, take up less space, and print in color for a tiny fraction of the price of color lasers.

A laser printer should have a resolution of at least 1200 dpi (dots per inch; higher numbers are better) and should print at least 10 pages per minute many printers print faster and at higher resolutions. Check the price of a new toner cartridge for each printer you're considering; this can be an expensive maintenance consideration.

Inkjet printers often claim to print at 600 dpi (or higher), but rarely produce the crisp images possible with a laser. Inkjet resolution isn't nearly as important for good print quality as printer manufacturers would have you believe. Compare sample printouts for the most accurate assessment.

If you're getting a second printer only to print photos and other color output, consider a dye-sublimation or dedicated photo printer. Dye-sub printers are about the same price as better inkjets, but the output is superior no dots! Dye-sub printers tend to be slow, however, and aren't suitable for pages and pages of black text.

If you plan to share a printer over a network (wise if you have two or more computers but don't feel like investing in two or more printers), make sure the one you get is networkable. This doesn't necessarily mean that it can connect directly to your network hub (although some can with an optional print-server expansion card), but rather that its drivers support being shared on a network. Some cheaper printers don't support this, so do your research. See Chapter 7 for details on setting up a local-area network and sharing printers.

5.3.15 Mice and Other Pointing Devices

If you have any software that came with your mouse,^[29] it's probably unnecessary and just taking up memory and disk space. Unless you need it for some advanced features, such as programming a third mouse button, you should remove the software, because Windows supports nearly all mice out of the box.

^[29] Examples include "Intellipoint" for Microsoft mice and "Mouseware" for Logitech mice.

Other than that, dust and dirt will kill mechanical pointing devices, so keep yours clean for best performance.

Double-click the Mouse icon in Control Panel to adjust the sensitivity of your mouse. You can also adjust the double-click speed and turn on "pointer-trails" to increase visibility on laptop displays. The mouse is a primary method of input, and fine-tuning these settings can go a long way to improving your relationship with your mouse. (Speak to your mouse occasionally; make it feel loved and appreciated.)

5.3.15.1 What to look for in a new pointing device

Cheap mice are usually all right, but aren't as responsive or long-lived as better mice. Try lots of different kinds in your local computer mega-store, and choose one that's sturdy, comfortable, and not dreadful to look at. It should have a long cord (or preferably no cord at all) and a plug with thumb screws so you don't need a screwdriver.

Most mice have two buttons, and some have three or more. Windows uses only two, but additional buttons can be programmed to take over other common operations, such as double-clicking or pasting text. The downside is that superfluous buttons can get in the way and can be confusing for new users. Many mice these days have those little wheels, intended to make scrolling easier try it before you spend extra on it.

Newer mice have optical sensors; no moving parts. These are superior to the older rollerball-type in every way; no mouse pad is required, and they never need to be cleaned.

Personally, I hate mice. I find a stylus (pen) to be much more comfortable, natural, and precise. You can get a pressure sensitive, cordless, battery-less stylus and a tablet for under a hundred bucks more than a mouse, but worth it if you use Photoshop or other graphics software. My advice: try a tablet before you invest in another rodent.

Other alternatives to consider include trackballs, touchpads, and track-points, like the ones that come with newer portable (laptop) computers. These often take up less desk space, require less movement of your hands (which can reduce hand fatigue), and don't require cleaning.

Before subscribing to the mouse mantra, do a little footwork and see if you can find something you like better.

Regardless of the specific type of pointing device, make sure the connector is supported by your computer. If you have a USB port, a USB device is absolutely your best bet. Get one that uses a serial port or PC/2 mouse port only if you don't have USB.

5.3.16 Keyboards

Double-click the Keyboard icon in Control Panel to adjust the various settings of your keyboard. Moving the Repeat Rate slider all the way to the right will do wonders to make your computer seem faster, especially when scrolling through a long document or moving the cursor through a lot of text. The Repeat Delay is different, though just adjust this to your liking, and test the setting in the box below.

Sticky or dirty keys can slow things down when you're typing; you can pull your keys off one by one and remove whatever is caught underneath. Some people have actually been successful cleaning the entire keyboard by immersing it in plain water (unplugged, of course) and reconnecting it when completely dry. Most keyboards are extremely cheap, so consider just replacing yours if it's not in top condition.

Keep in mind that most keyboards haven't been effectively designed for use with the human hand, no matter what Microsoft says in trying to market their "Natural" keyboard; true ergonomic keyboards are adjustable, not just shaped funny. Your best defense in reducing hand and back strain is to position your keyboard (and yourself, if you have an adjustable chair) so that your elbows are at the same level (distance from the floor) as your hands, and that your arms are well supported. And if your chair tilts forward, it may induce a more comfortable sitting and typing position.

Another way to increase typing performance is to just not use your keyboard at all. Products like Dragon NaturallySpeaking (http://www.dragonsys.com) and IBM ViaVoice (http://www.ibm.com) support so-called "natural-speech" dictation, which allow you to speak comfortably into a microphone and dictate as you would to a human assistant or inhuman tape recorder, often at much higher speeds than is possible with hand entry. These can be quite effective but, like everything else, aren't for everyone. Some of the material in this book was actually dictated with such software (fry two guest witch cent ounces).

A wrist rest may be comfortable, but they sometimes put too much pressure on the median nerves in your wrists. If you're experiencing wrist pain or numbness, try eliminating the wrist rest for a day or two. If you're experiencing any pain or numbness in your hands, wrists, arms, back, or neck, drop this book immediately and talk with a physician. In short, take repetitive stress injuries seriously.

5.3.16.1 What to look for in a new keyboard

Get yourself a solid keyboard; the brand doesn't matter (although, in my opinion, the keyboards IBM made in the late eighties and early nineties are still the best conventional keyboards out there). Just make sure it has a nice long cord and is well made.

Most keyboards are very flimsy and cheap. Shop around to find one with a solid feel and good quality keys; your fingers will thank you. Some people like soft-touch (mushy) keyboards, while others like tactile (clicky) keyboards; get one to suit your taste and that won't hinder your work.

Compact keyboards not only take up less desk space but require less movement of your hands, which can reduce hand fatigue. Larger keyboards usually feel more solid, though, and may be more comfortable for those with larger hands.

True ergonomic keyboards are now getting more affordable and more popular. Some of the more radical designs have split, adjustable keyboards, curved to fit the motion and shape of your hands. Carefully scrutinize the so-called "Natural" keyboards from Microsoft and other manufacturers, which mimic the more carefully designed, higher-quality ergonomic keyboards. These devices usually aren't any better for your hands than standard flat keyboards and can actually do more damage than good. The most important thing in an ergonomic keyboard is not the shape or the marketing lingo, but its ability to be adjusted. The key is to reduce the distance your wrists and fingers have to travel to press the keys. Try one before buying, though: they aren't for everyone.

5.3.17 The Box and Power Supply

The computer case and power supply don't directly affect performance, but there are differences in design and features that warrant attention. Look for a case with several fans for better cooling, plenty of drive bays for future expansion, and easy access. A well-designed case won't have sharp edges inside (I learned this the hard way) and won't require you to dismantle the entire computer to accomplish something as simple as adding more memory. Some cases can be opened without the need for a screwdriver, making that task just a little easier. Rack-mount cases (usually black with two large handles in front) are generally of much higher quality than the standard gun-metal gray cases you'll find in most computer stores, but are also typically more expensive.

The power supply must provide a steady flow of power to all your computer's internal components, and can influence the stability of your system. Unfortunately, most computers come with cheap, poor-quality supplies that end up causing all sorts of problems. If you have a desktop computer, you have the option of replacing your power supply with a more capable suit.

Power supplies are rated by the amount of power they can provide (in watts); most computers come with 200-300W supplies, but many power users end up needing 350-400W. The problem with power ratings, however, is the most of those cheap power supplies don't hold up under the load. A cheap 400W unit may drop under 300W when you start connecting devices, but better supplies can supply more than enough power for even the most demanding systems, and will continue to provide reliable operations for years to come. A well-made power supply will also be heavy, and will be more expensive than the 20-dollar paperwieghts that are being sold.